Everything about your skin's barrier

What is the skin barrier and why is it important?

The skin barrier is your body's first line of defence against the outside world. It is the outermost layer of the skin that keeps all the layers of the skin together. This layer is also known as the Stratum Corneum or horny layer. This layer consists of dead skin cells and fats. So it is a very important layer! With a healthy skin barrier your skin feels smooth and soft, but if the barrier becomes disrupted, you may experience dry patches, redness, irritations and even skin problems such as eczema or pimples.

• Stratum Basale: This is the lowest layer of the epidermis and lies directly against the dermis. New skin cells are continuously produced in this layer. These young cells divide and slowly move up to the layers above. In this way the skin is constantly renewed from within. This process is the natural cell division of the skin.

• Stratum Spinosum: this layer contains cells that are connected to each other by means of small bridges. This allows the skin to move along a little and makes it resistant to pressure and friction.

• Stratum Granulosum: The cells in this layer fill with a protein: keratin, which is produced by the keratinocytes. Keratin makes the skin firm and water-repellent.

• Stratum Lucidum: This layer only occurs on thick skin, such as the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. It is a thin, transparent layer that provides extra protection.

• Stratum Corneum: this is the outermost layer of the skin. This skin consists of dead skin cells that have become keratinised (hard and flat). They form a protective barrier against dehydration, dirt and bacteria.
  
  

Function of the skin barrier

The skin barrier, in particular the horny layer, has a number of essential roles in protecting and keeping our skin healthy. These are the functions of the skin barrier:

• Protection against external influences: The horny layer is the first line of defence against external influences. The horny layer keeps unwanted substances and micro-organisms out. UV radiation and temperature fluctuations are partly held back by this layer.

• Prevents moisture loss: Prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), so that the skin stays hydrated and does not dry out.

• pH regulation and microbial balance: The skin barrier has a slightly acidic pH (around 4.5-5.5), which helps to keep the natural skin flora (microbiome) in balance, inhibit the growth of harmful micro-organisms and support immune cells in the skin. These immune cells respond early to intruders.

• Protection of the deeper skin layers: in addition to superficial protection, the barrier also shields the underlying layers. This keeps the structure of collagen and elastin protected from breakdown, and sensitive nerve endings and blood vessels are better shielded from stimuli.

A healthy skin barrier is therefore very important for both the appearance and the functioning of your skin. It contributes to smooth, even and radiant skin and ensures less sensitivity such as redness, itching and eczema. It also ensures better absorption and effectiveness of skincare products.

Causes of damage to the skin barrier

There are various factors that can damage the skin barrier or throw it out of balance.

1. Excessive cleansing

One of the most common culprits is overly aggressive cleansing of the skin. Regular contact with water (especially hot water) and drying soaps or cleansers with a high pH can wash away the skin's fats.

Oily skin
People with oily skin often make it worse by using aggressive degreasing agents, for example a high percentage of alcohol, soap or acid. As a result, they run a greater risk of damaging the skin barrier. So for oily skin too: cleanse gently and protect your skin!

Dry / sensitive skin
Dry or sensitive skin is naturally more vulnerable and tolerates aggressive cleansers even less well, which can result in irritated, flaky and tight skin.

2. Excessive exfoliation

Peels and scrubs can improve skin texture when used correctly, but exfoliating too often or too intensely (with strong acids, scrub particles or exfoliating devices) damages the horny layer. It removes too much of the protective cell layers and lipids, making the barrier "thinner" and less effective.

3. Use of irritating cosmetics or treatments.

Products with alcohol, perfume, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) or synthetic fragrances can disrupt the skin barrier. Certain active substances in high concentrations (such as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or highly concentrated fruit acids) can also weaken the barrier when used excessively or incorrectly.

People with oily skin in particular regularly use such powerful products. Of course these products can support the skin, but using too much can irritate the skin, dry it out and throw the skin barrier out of balance.

4. Environmental factors / UV radiation

Cold air and low humidity (due to heating, for example) in winter draw moisture out of the skin and slow down the production of skin fats, which weakens the barrier. This is why many people suffer from drier, flaky skin in winter. Wind and extreme heat can also dry out and damage the skin. Excessive exposure to sunlight can also affect the skin barrier. Sunburn is an extreme example of this: the skin peels, a sign that the skin's barrier has been damaged.

5. Skin type and genetic predisposition

Some people naturally have a less strong skin barrier. Dry skin types, for example, produce less sebum and have a thinner lipid barrier, which means they lose moisture more quickly and the skin dries out more easily

6. Age

As we get older, the natural production of skin lipids and natural moisturising factors decreases. The skin barrier therefore loses strength and recovers more slowly from damage

7. Lifestyle & hormones

Nutritional deficiencies (such as a lack of Vitamin A, D, E or essential fatty acids) can also affect the skin barrier. Chronic stress and hormonal fluctuations (menstruation, pregnancy, menopause) also weaken the skin barrier and can lead to dryness and flaking. Chronic stress raises the hormone cortisol, which impairs the skin barrier function and slows down its recovery.

What does your skin need for a healthy barrier?

A healthy skin barrier is essential for supple, resilient skin. That barrier consists largely of lipids:

• Ceramides (50%)

• Cholesterol (25%)

• Free fatty acids (15%)

These fats form a kind of protective layer that retains moisture and keeps harmful substances out. In addition, natural moisturising substances such as amino acids, urea, lactic acid and salts allow the skin to hold water. Without these substances the skin dries out and becomes flaky and vulnerable.

But the barrier is about more than just fat and moisture.

How do you strengthen the skin barrier naturally?

The skin barrier is your first line of defence against harmful external influences. It prevents moisture loss and protects against irritating substances, bacteria and pollution. If the barrier is weakened, you may suffer from dryness, redness, flaking or a tight feeling. Fortunately, with the right approach and ingredients, you can do a lot to protect, restore and strengthen your skin barrier.

Step 1: Gentle cleansing

Cleanse gently, without disrupting the skin barrier. This is how you do it:

• Use a mild cleanser with a slightly acidic pH

• Cleansing oil or balm is ideal: it cleanses without drying out

• Avoid hot water and aggressive cleansers. Lukewarm is enough and ensures that the skin's fats do not dissolve.

• Shower briefly: a maximum of 10 minutes with lukewarm water

• Pat the skin dry instead of rubbing; this prevents damage to the outermost skin layer.

• Do not wash more often than necessary. Cleansing once a day is usually enough. Cleansing too often can actually weaken the barrier.

Step 2: Hydrate

After cleansing, your skin is often a little drier. Apply a hydrating toner, spray and/or serum straight away, with:

• Glycerine

• Hyaluronic acid

• Aloe Vera

• D-panthenol

These ingredients attract water into the skin and prepare it for further care. A hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid or panthenol works too.

Step 3: Care: sealing in and restoring moisture

After applying a hydrating toner, it is important to lock in the moisture and help the skin barrier to recover. You do this with nourishing, soothing and barrier-strengthening ingredients.

Barrier-strengthening ingredients

These substances work deeper or stimulate the skin's own barrier function.

• Niacinamide (vitamin B3): Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces moisture loss and redness.

• Ceramides (plant-derived): Essential for the lipid structure in the skin, prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5): Soothing and hydrating, helps with skin recovery.

Plant butters (occlusive, moisture-retaining):

• Shea butter: Rich in fatty acids, supports skin recovery.

• Cocoa butter: Nourishing and protective for dry or cracked skin.

• Mango butter: Light and soothing, rich in antioxidants.

Plant oils (lipid-restoring):

• Jojoba oil: Resembles sebum, regulates and soothes.

• Almond oil: Mild, nourishing and ideal for sensitive skin.

• Avocado oil: Rich in A, D and E, nourishes intensively.

• Hemp seed oil: Perfect ratio of omega 3 & 6, restorative.

• Evening primrose oil / Borage oil: Rich in GLA, ideal for inflammation or dry skin.

• Rice Bran Oil: Contains natural ceramides.

• Pomegranate oil: Stimulates cell renewal and skin recovery.

Plant extracts and CO₂ extracts

These are full of antioxidants, soothe the skin and indirectly help to strengthen the barrier.

• Calendula CO2 extract: Supports recovery of damaged skin.

• Sea buckthorn CO₂ extract: Rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, stimulates skin recovery.

• Echinacea extract: Increases the skin's resistance, supports barrier function.