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If you like to make your own skincare, you probably pay close attention to the ingredients you use. Natural oils, butters, hydrosols and Essential oils, you're sure to know those already. But have you heard of CO₂ extracts yet? In this blog you'll read all about CO₂ extracts.
A CO2 extract is an oil extract that is obtained by means of CO₂ extraction. These oils are full of active plant substances and smell incredibly pure, as if you were smelling the fresh plant itself. They are extracted in a super-gentle way using carbon dioxide gas (CO₂), so that not only the scent, but also resins and skin-nourishing substances are preserved.
Powerful antioxidants, calming compounds and nourishing fatty acids, all in a single drop.
CO₂ extraction is a wonderful way to extract active substances from plants, without heat. It uses carbon dioxide gas (CO₂), the same gas that creates the bubbles in soft drinks. But in this process that gas is put under high pressure, causing it to reach a kind of 'in-between phase': it is then no longer a gas, but not an ordinary liquid either. We also call this supercritical CO₂.
In that form, CO₂ acts as a powerful solvent. It can extract fragrances, pigments, resins, fatty acids and antioxidants (fat-soluble parts) from the plant material, so much more than just the scent, as with essential oil. As soon as the pressure is lowered again, the CO₂ disappears as a gas, without leaving any residue behind. What remains is a pure, concentrated extract.
Because the whole process takes place at a low temperature (much lower than with steam distillation), sensitive substances such as carotenoids, boswellic acids and matricine are simply preserved. These would be lost at high temperature. And that makes CO₂ extracts powerful and mild at the same time.
Production is labour-intensive and often takes place in small batches, so CO₂ extracts are usually a little more expensive. But in return you get more active substances and a refined scent!
CO₂ extracts combine the best of both worlds: the aromatic power of Essential oils and the skin-nourishing properties of vegetable oils, waxes and antioxidants. This means you can use them very well in DIY skincare!
Essential oils consist mainly of volatile aromatic substances (such as monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes). During steam distillation, many other valuable components are lost, such as fatty acids, resins, phytosterols and some antioxidants. CO₂ extracts retain these substances because they are extracted at a low temperature and without water.
Unlike essential oils, CO₂ extracts contain a broader spectrum of plant-based components, including:
Sesquiterpenes and monoterpenes
These are also present in Essential Oils. These are the volatile fragrances such as limonene, alpha-pinene, linalool and beta-caryophyllene. They often have antibacterial or stimulating properties.
These are essential for aromatherapy and the scent experience. In CO₂ extracts these molecules are preserved, just as in Essential Oil, but often in a softer, more balanced composition (less sharp, more true to nature).
🌿 Example: Ginger CO₂ Extract
Rich in zingiberene (a sesquiterpene) and other fragrance components with warming, stimulating properties. Ideal in muscle oil, warming balms or activating skin products.
Fatty acid compounds
These are not present in Essential Oils. Fatty acid compounds such as:
- Linoleic acid (omega 6) supports the skin barrier and helps reduce moisture loss.
- Palmitoleic acid stimulates wound healing and cell renewal.
Palmitic acid has soothing and protective properties.
These fatty acids are essential for skin repair, hydration and protection, and make CO₂ extracts very suitable for sensitive or dry skin.
🌿 Example: Coconut CO₂ extract contains saturated fatty acids such as lauric acid and myristic acid. Hydrating, soothing and antibacterial. Ideal for dry skin, lip care and balms.
Phytosterols
These are not present in Essential Oils
Phytosterols are plant sterols that resemble the cholesterol in our skin. Among other things, they help strengthen the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss.
🌿 Example: Calendula CO₂ Extract
Rich in phytosterols, ideal for calming and hydrating skincare
Carotenoids
These are not present in Essential Oils
Carotenoids such as beta-carotene and lycopene are strong antioxidants that protect the skin against oxidative stress (such as UV damage). They give an orange to reddish colour to the extract. Some carotenoids, such as beta-carotene, can be converted into vitamin A in the skin.
🌿 Example: Sea Buckthorn CO₂-to Extract
High content of carotenoids, supports the production of collagen and helps with the care of scars. Ideal for anti-ageing and cell renewal.
Chlorophyll and other pigments
These are not present in Essential Oils. They are mildly antibacterial and antioxidant and can contribute to calming the skin and speeding up healing.
🌿 Example: Coffee CO₂ Extract
Contains natural pigments and antioxidants, gives a lively coffee aroma to skincare products.
Resin components/triterpenes
Non-volatile substances that you therefore won't find in Essential Oils.
They protect the skin and support cell renewal
These components often have a protective and supportive effect and stimulate cell renewal.
🌿 Example: Frankincense Serrata CO₂ Extract
Contains resin compounds such as boswellic acids, known for their cell-renewing effect. Ideal in anti-ageing creams, the care of scars or restorative balms.
Waxy substances
Non-volatile substances that do not occur in Essential Oils.
They soften, protect and help the skin retain moisture. Waxy components (such as natural waxes, fatty alcohols and fat-soluble esters) sometimes give CO₂ extracts a thicker or more viscous texture. These substances form a light film on the skin that protects against dehydration, without sealing it off.
🌿 Example: Calendula CO₂-to Extract (Organic)
This extract contains faradiol esters and waxy substances that are known for their calming and restorative properties. Ideal for use in creams for sensitive, irritated or dry skin. Such as baby care, lip balms or hand creams.
