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All plant-based oils are formed by fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids, monounsaturated fatty acids or polyunsaturated fatty acids. But what actually are these and what do they do for our skin? In this blog you can read all about fatty acids.
Let's go back to basics. Our body consists of cells. These cells need fatty acids in order to function. Fatty acids, also known as lipids, contribute to healthy cells. You can divide fatty acids into:
Essential fatty acids
Non-essential fatty acids
Essential fatty acids are fatty acids that are important for us, but that are not produced by our body. We have to obtain these fatty acids in another way, for example through diet or skincare.
Essential fatty acids are also known as essential lipids or vitamin F.
Non-essential fatty acids are fatty acids that the human body can produce itself, such as oleic acid.
There are two types of essential fatty acids: linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. Various studies have shown that a deficiency in essential fatty acids is associated with skin problems such as dry, itchy and flaky skin. After all, our skin's own sebum also contains fatty acids. It is also known that impure skin contains fewer essential fatty acids than healthy skin. Essential fatty acids therefore have quite an influence on the skin condition and can be supplemented by using plant-based oils. It is no wonder, then, that we are such fans of using plant-based oils in cosmetics.
Fatty acids can also be divided into saturated and unsaturated. Linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid and gamma-linolenic acid fall under the polyunsaturated fatty acids. Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid. Palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid and capric acid fall under the saturated fatty acids.
The percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids influences how an oil absorbs into the skin. A drying oil (an oil that dries quickly) has more than half polyunsaturated fatty acids, a semi-drying oil has more than 20% polyunsaturated fatty acids, and a non-drying oil has less than 20% polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Hard fats consist mainly of saturated fatty acids that only melt at a higher temperature, whereas oil usually consists largely of unsaturated fatty acids and is therefore liquid.
Oils rich in linoleic acid absorb quickly and leave no greasy layer on the skin. Oils that contain a lot of linoleic acid are: Safflower oil, Sacha Inchi oil, Grape seed oil and Rosehip oil. Oils rich in linolenic acid help to repair the skin and stimulate cell renewal. They also help to preserve the moisture level in the skin and contribute to healthy skin.
Alpha-linolenic acid (omega 3)
Alpha-linolenic acid has a soothing effect and reduces irritated and sensitive skin. This fatty acid is mainly found in Baobab oil and flaxseed oil.
Oleic acid (omega 9)
Oleic acid provides slow but good absorption. Oils with more oleic acid usually penetrate deeper into the skin and help to make the skin oilier. Oils with more oleic acid are, for example, Olive oil, Apricot kernel oil and Marula oil. Oleic acid is one of the most stable unsaturated fatty acids and is therefore less susceptible to oxidation compared to other unsaturated fatty acids.
Gamma-linolenic acid (omega 6)
Gamma-linolenic acid supports the skin's natural ability to retain moisture and thus helps to reduce skin ageing. Evening primrose oil and Borage oil contain a high concentration of gamma-linolenic acid.
Palmitoleic acid (omega 7)
Slows down the ageing process; this fatty acid decreases as we get older. It also reduces the evaporation of moisture from the skin and helps to improve the skin barrier function. You will find palmitoleic acid in Sea buckthorn oil and Macadamia oil.
Lauric acid
Lauric acid helps to reduce irritations; it is one of the main components of Coconut oil.
Stearic acid
Prevents moisture loss from the skin and leaves a soft film layer on the skin. You will find this fatty acid in Coconut oil and Safflower oil, among others.
Jojoba oil contains little linoleic acid and oleic acid and is actually not an oil but a wax, which is why it functions differently on the skin. Jojoba oil mainly contains ceramides, which are fatty substances that occur in our skin barrier. In terms of composition, jojoba closely resembles human sebum and is therefore very good to use as a base oil. In addition, thanks to its low content of saturated fatty acids, it is also suitable for oily and impure skin.
Because of the different composition of fatty acids in plant-based oils, it is good to combine oils. This ensures ideal care for your skin!
Written by: Helena Laarman
