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'No pain, no gain' is something you hear not just at the gym, but increasingly when it comes to skincare too. You apply a new cream to your face, it stings a little and you think: ah, it's working! But is that tingling feeling really a sign that the product is doing its job? Our Malou is crystal clear on this: if a product tingles on your face, something is almost always not right.
Your skin is the largest organ in your body and your face is full of nerve fibres lying just beneath the surface of the skin. When a skincare product activates these nerves, it can be a sign of an inflammatory reaction; literally your skin screaming: I don't like this. Ignoring this signal for a long time means keeping your skin in a constant state of irritation and creating long-term problems such as a weakened skin barrier, redness and sensitive skin.
Of course, there are exceptions. Some active ingredients can cause a mild, short-lived tingling sensation without this being harmful.
AHAs and salicylic acid (BHA)
These acids temporarily lower the pH of your skin, which can cause a brief, mild prickling sensation. It's important that this fades quickly; if it persists, then it's not okay. And always use an SPF during the day when working with acids.
Essential oils such as menthol and peppermint
These give a cooling, tingling effect. On your body this is often harmless, but on your face? Better not. The skin on your face is thinner and more prone to reactions.
The real problem arises when your daily products – your day cream, your serum or your moisturiser – give you that uncomfortable feeling again every single day. It can point to a damaged skin barrier or to an intolerance to a particular ingredient. If you then think 'it's working, so I'll keep going', you keep putting unnecessary strain on your skin. Good skincare feels comfortable; it isn't exciting.
Good care is not a contest to see who can endure the most irritation. Your skin needs rest, recovery and the right balance. Choose products that make it feel comfortable and that support its barrier instead of constantly putting it on edge.
Tip: unsure about the active ingredients in your skincare? With the right base ingredients you can make simple, soothing formulas yourself that match exactly what your skin needs. Take a look at our DIY section for skin-friendly recipes.